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To an Englishman who has never lived in a slave country, or in a country in which slavery once prevailed, the negro population is of course the most striking feature of the West Indies. But the eye soon becomes accustomed to the black skin and the thick lip, and the ear to the broken patois which is the nearest approach to English which the ordinary negro ever makes. When one has been a week among them, the novelty is all gone. It is only by an exercise of memory and intellect that one is enabled to think of them as a strange race. But how strange is the race of Creole negroes — of negroes, that is, born out of Africa. They have no country of their own, yet have they not hitherto any country of their adoption ; for, whether as slaves in Cuba, or as free labourers in the British isles, they are in each case a servile people in a foreign land. They have no language of their own, nor have they as yet any language of their adoption ; for they speak their broken English as uneducated foreigners always speak a foreign language. They have no idea of country, and no pride of race ; for even among themselves, the word *' n******g " conveys their worst term of reproach. They have no religion of their owD, and can hardly as yet be said to have, as a people, a religion by adoption ; and yet there is no race which has more strongly developed its own physical aptitudes and inaptitudes, its own habits, its own tastes, and its own faults. The West Indian negro knows nothing of Africa ex- cept that it is a term of reproach. If African immigrants are put to work on the same estate with him, he will not eat with them, or drink with them, or walk with them. He will hardly work beside them, and regards himself as a creature immeasurably the superior of the new comer. But yet he has made no approach to the civilization of his white fellow-creature, whom he imitates as a monkey does a man. Physically he is capable of the hardest bodily work, and that probably with less bodily pain than men of any other race ; but he is idle, unambitious as to worldly position, sensual, and content with little. Intellectually, he is apparently capable of but little sustained effort; but, singularly enough, here he is ambitious. He bums to be regarded as a scholar, puzzles himself with fine words, addicts himself to religion for the sake of appearance, and delights in aping the little graces of civilization. He despises himself thoroughly, and would probably be con- tent to starve for a month if he could appear as a white man for a day ; but yet he delights in signs of respect paid to him, black man as he is, and is always thinking of his own dignity. If you want to win his heart for an hour, call him a gentleman ; but if you want to reduce him to a despairing obedience, tell him that he is a filthy n******g, a**ure him that his father and mother had tails like monkeys, and forbid him to think that he can have a soul like a white man. Among the West Indies one may frequently see either course adopted towards them by their unreasoning ascendant masters. I do not think that education has as yet done much for the black man in the Western world. He can always observe, and often read ; but he can seldom reason. I do not mean to a**ert that he is absolutely without mental power, as a calf is. He does draw conclusions, but he carries them only a short way. I think that he seldom understands the purpose of industry, the object of truth, or the results of honesty. He is not always idle, perhaps not always false, certainly not always a thief; but his motives are the fear of immediate punish- ment, or hopes of immediate reward. He fears that and hopes that only. Certain virtues he copies, because they are the virtues of a white man. The white man is the god present to his eye, and he believes in him — believes in him with a qualified faith, a d imitates him with a qualified constancy. And thus I am led to say, and I say it with sorrow enough, that I distrust the negro's religion. What I mean is this : that in my opinion they rarely take in and digest the great and simple doctrines of Christianity, that they should love and fear the Lord their God, and love their neighbours as themselves. Those who differ from me — and the number will comprise the whole clergy of these western realms, and very many beside the clergy — will ask, among other questions, whether these simple doctrines are obeyed in England much better than they are in Jamaica. I would reply that I am not speaking of obedience. The opinion which I venture to give is, that the very first meaning of the terms does not often reach the negro's mind, not even the minds of those among them who are enthusiastically religious. To them religious exercises are in themselves the good thing desirable. They sing their psalms, and believe, probably, that good will result ; but they do not connect their psalms with the practice of any virtue. They say their prayers ; but, having said them, have no idea that they should there- fore forgive offences. They hear the commandments and delight in the responses ; but those commandments are not in their hearts connected with abstinence from adultery or calumny. They delight to go to church or meeting ; they are energetic in singing psalms ; they are constant in the responses ; and, which is saying much more for them, they are wonderfully expert at Scripture texts ; but — and I say it with grief of heart, and with much trembling also at the reproaches which I shall have to endure — I doubt whether religion does often reach their minds.